The monsoon brings with it many more things than just water. Smelling the water-soaked earth or watching the raindrops splatter on the earth is joy incomparable. And what better place to enjoy the rain than on a homemade raft bang in the middle of a heaving river?

Bharathapuzha (Nila) is the largest river in Kerala and its biggest tributary, Tootha, originates deep in the heart of one of India's most sacred biodiversity hotspots — the Silent Valley. And this was the river from which I got a breathtaking view of the monsoon.

River rafting is a big draw during the rainy season in the mountain torrents that emerge from the Western Ghats. It is often experienced in big, expensive, imported rafts in which you get through the course with just getting your feet wet. But Tootha is a refreshing difference. Your raft is made from just seven bamboo poles and three slightly used lorry tubes. (The organisers, The Blue Yonder, use these tubes because they hold the round shape better than new ones.) Each raft seats three and you are literally right in the water. And oh, you get to build your own raft with the local people before you set out.

Luco Francis, captain for the journey and an experienced rafter and forest guide too, helped us prepare the rafts and our makeshift paddles — stripped, dry coconut palm fronds. Everything except the tubes and nylon straps used to secure them are ecofriendly. Though plastic covers were used to carry food, we were strictly told not to throw them into the water. So, early afternoon, we set off in three rafts with the sun firmly behind ominous dark grey clouds.

For any landlubber, the first lesson in rafting is: paddling is tough work. For the initial few minutes it takes to find your stroke and rhythm, the exertion is tremendous. The arms start cramping and the abdominal muscles are on fire, but we soon found our rhythm. There is no option but to paddle till you reach the current in the middle of the river. Once the current starts tugging you along, it's all about steering. This is where you learn lesson number two: when you paddle on the right hand side, you turn left and vice versa.

Just as we were setting a steady clip, the skies opened up and the full fury of the monsoon was upon us. We first had big fat rain, then rain that came horizontally, then rain that came up from the river and finally small thin rain. The effect was just surreal as we lost sight of the other two rafts in the billowing rain, and we were soaked to the bone. So we decided to call port at one of the many banana plantations that line the riverbank. From here we watched the rain droplets hit the water and create inverted teardrops that stay up for a microsecond, and then disappear back into the river.

Paddling again for an hour we reached our lunch stop — a sandbar. Here we had mangoes for lunch and were greeted by a group of villagers who had come in their boat to check out the weirdos in yellow jackets and red hats. This was the scene we encountered at all the villages on the riverbank. Hordes of people turned up to cheer us. The river is life here. Almost every village has a boat and the river is the biggest public bathhouse available. Women come down for a wash late in the afternoon, and we maintained a healthy distance from them for obvious reasons.

We soon encountered our first rapids. These were not the Himalayan kind but were powerful enough to make steering the raft impossible. Nevertheless we had our share of hair-raising moments when the raft got impaled on submerged rocks or weeds, and when we veered dangerously close to spiky bushes on the riverbank.

As dusk approached, the light started fading, and we had to stop. We spotted the chase van on a bridge and our support crew beckoned us to the pier below the bridge. Though the other two rafts made it, the strong current carried us away, and we found ourselves beached on a sandbar in the middle of the surging river. Unable to paddle in the strong current, it was finally up to our heroic captain Luco to swim across the raging river with a rope to pull us to safety.

Travel tips

The Blue Yonder organises the rafting expedition. The organisation is working to rejuvenate the Bharathapuzha by attracting global attention and helping villagers fight for the river's long-term survival. A majority of the revenues earned from tourists goes towards this purpose.

The cost for a half-day run is Rs. 750 per head and a full-day run Rs. 1,000. The full-day run includes food, and visits to riverside plantations. For safety, helmets and lifejackets are provided. The assembly point is Riverside Resort, Kuttipuram, Palakkad District. From there you will be taken to the starting point.

To get to Kuttipuram take any Ernakulam bus and get down right at the resort road. Stay at the resort can be arranged at Rs. 1,200 a night, which includes breakfast.

For bookings call The Blue Yonder on 98860-53286 or 09341317125 or 080-25213902/3 or email bejoy@theblueyonder .com. Customised tours can also be arranged but tariffs will differ.

ANAND SANKAR

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